How to Order:
Please email me direct at: roninleatherholstersllc@gmail.com I have removed the contact form as customers are having issues receiving my reply. If you do not hear from me within 24 hours, feel free to call, text or direct message on Facebook or Instagram. I am very prompt in returning emails, messages, texts, etc. This is not a web store as I have tried that and it did not work for how I want to deal with customers. I want to give each client my 100% attention. NOTE: My replies/emails often go to spam. Please check your spam folder. If it is not there, please text or message me on social media.
If you prefer to order over the phone, it may need to be scheduled. As I am a one person shop, I often to not hear my phone or cannot stop what I am doing to give the client my undivided attention.
I am not open on weekends. I will, however, answer emails I receive during that time, when I can.
Please know, orders DO NOT go in the queue until payment is received.
If you have a red dot, please read the information below regarding limitations.
I will not build for any firearm where the front sight is taller than .5 inches.
I no longer make ANY holsters with thumb breaks NOR KNIFE SHEATHS.
Outside the Waistband
Make/Model/Barrel Length/Optic (model)/Threaded Barrel/Light (model)/Sight height/Other (Please know I DO NOT build for any revolver with a red dot.)
Draw hand, cant, ride height, belt width, open or sewn at the muzzle, shirt guard (none, half or full), body color, rough or slick out leather, reinforcement color (if desired), exotic (if desired)
Inside the Waistband
Make/Model/Barrel Length/Optic (model)/Threaded Barrel/Light (model)/Sight height/Other (Please know I DO NOT build for any revolver with a red dot.)
Draw hand, cant, belt width, open or sewn at the muzzle, shirt guard (none, half or full), body color, rough or slick out leather, reinforcement color (desired), exotic (if desired)
Appendix Inside the Waistband
Make/Model/Barrel Length/Optic (model)/Threaded Barrel/Light (model)/Sight height/Other (Please know I DO NOT build for any revolver with a red dot.)
Draw hand, belt width, clip model, open or sewn at the muzzle, shirt guard (none, half or full EXCEPT THE AEGIS R MODEL. Please see the photo under the Aegis R description.), body color, rough or slick out leather, reinforcement color, exotic (if desired), Modwing or Darkwing, steel band, Velcro with adhesive for after market wedges, pillows, etc. ($2) (Notes: All AIWB come with a steel band except the Aegis Calypto 1.)
Shoulder Holsters
Make/Model/Barrel Length/Optic (model)/Threaded Barrel/Light (model)/Sight height/Other (Please know I DO NOT build for any revolver with a red dot.)
Holster and mag carrier color, rough or slick out, strap color, 1.5" tapered to 1" or solid 1" top straps, back strap color (if desired). If an exotic is desired, please email me so I can ask more specific questions. Measurements: for the top strap, measure from the base of the neck to where the front sight would be. For the bottom strap, please measure from the base of the neck to where the muzzle would be. For the back strap, measure from armpit to armpit. Please know I do not do tie downs. The back strap system works much better than tie downs for draw and to keep the system from sagging forward when bending forward.
Pocket holsters:
Make/Model/Barrel Length Please know I do not build for red dots, lights, lasers, etc.
Draw hand, pancake or clams shell design, body color, rough or slick out, exotic (if desired)
Magazine, cuff and light carriers:
Make/Model/Extended/Modified
Side worn, vertical or slightly canted, bullets forward or back, body color, rough or slick out leather, trim/trim color (if desired), exotic (if desired). For the Aegis Calypto single mag carrier: what clip model. For handcuff carriers, I will need the make, model and if the cuffs are hinged or chain. For handheld lights, I am limited. Please email me for more information.
Tanker Holster:
Make/Model/Barrel Length/Optic (model)/Threaded Barrel/Light (model)/Sight height/Other (Please know I DO NOT build for any revolver with a red dot.)
Draw hand, holster color, rough or slick out leather, strap color, exotic (if desired). Measurements: for the shoulder strap, measure where you would like the ejection port/cylinder on your torso and go up your back, over your shoulder to where you would like the grip to be. For the back/belly strap, measure from the ejection port/cylinder, around your torso to roughly where the front of the trigger guard should be.
Belts:
Belt width (1.25, 1.5 or 1.75 inches), buckle color (if you would like something else, please email me), leather color, rough or slick out, exotic (if desired), polymer core (if desired), 5 or 7 holes, 1 or 3/4 inches between the holes. Measurement: please measure from the fold at the buckle to the hole used the most. I recommend the hole you use while carrying a firearm. That hole would be the center hole on your new belt. However, if you want to change that due to upcoming weight loss, etc. Please email me. If you use a belt like KORE, measure from the back portion of the buckle to where the tail of the belt enters the buckle, then add 2 inches. This will be a rough idea. If you do not want to use that method, please measure your waist, with your pants worn, with a seamstress tape. Please, do not give me your pant size as it may not be correct. Ex: Some of my 36" waist pants are actually 34" or 38". I have even seen some that were greater than that. Belts are non refundable if the client gives me the incorrect size.
Once I have collected all of this information, I will give the client a quote, to include any military, law enforcement, veteran, first responder, retired, etc. discount. Shipping is USPS, however, I do not mind sending items via UPS or FedEx. But, there is a price difference for these two. I no longer ship internationally. The only way I would is if it is going to a military installation. Otherwise, the headache, delay, inconvenience to the client for international shipping as been tremendous. Due to the ever increasing price increases with carriers and shipping supplies, shipping cost is now based on the clients location.
Once the client agrees to the price, has given me all of their information, I will send an invoice, for review/approval, with payment options. Please know, it is the clients responsibility to ensure ALL of the information is correct. Once approved, and no mistakes are pointed out, it is on the client, if something is missed. No different than if you "click" the wrong thing when ordering from Amazon. Except, I am not Amazon. This is a holster made specifically to the clients request and there are no returns for something they missed. It is on the client to ensure all of the pertinent information is correct.
I take the following: PayPal, Venmo, Cashapp, Zelle, credit card over the phone or secure invoice, check or money order. PAYMENT IS DUE UPON RECEIPT, UNLESS OTHERWISE AGREED UPON. If the client does not pay within 48 hours, I will contact them a total of 3 times before I delete the order. I am a one person shop. I do not want to lose money because of buyer's remorse or spend time chasing someone down.
Thank you for your interest in my holsters. Feel free to contact me with any questions.
Dave Galloway
Owner
roninleatherholstersllc@gmail.com
360.870.9904
PO Box 1111 Duchesne, Utah 84021
Regarding red dots:
Please know I make an earnest attempt to keep my customers happy and provide the best service and product that I can. With that being said... The growing number of orders for optic ready holsters has almost quadrupled in the past year. This is great. I enjoy optics on a few of my pistols and fully understand their use and often a necessity for some shooters. However, there are limitations, on my end, that I want to make crystal clear before someone orders a holster for an optic ready pistol.
**As these are made to order, I cannot guarantee the holster will work if you change optics in the future. IE: Swapping from a Holosun to a Trijicon SRO. The cut will not be the same.**
-If the optic is past the beginning of the ejection port, I will not accept the order. I apologize but this is to prevent any retention issues.
-I will only accept orders for the RMR HD and RMR SRO if the optic is set further back. IE: Atlas, Nighthawk IOS with the rear sight in front of the optic etc.
-I will not build for large, enclosed optics like the ACRO.
Here are the specifics of each holster and optic:
-ALL standard IWB holsters will have a maximum cant of 15 to 17 degrees with an optic.
-The maximum for the Aegis Monoblock is 15 degrees.
-The maximum cant for the Orvar, SW Special, Hastae and Okami is 15 to 17 degrees.
-For the JP Avenger, cant, ride and availability of the steel band depends on the position of the optic and the size of the pistol.
-Shoulder holsters may not work with some optics. I have to have enough leather at the top of the holster to balance the holster, when worn.
-I will not build a pocket holster for any pistol with optic.
I am quite sure this is disheartening and disappointing for some. This is not something I just woke up and decided to do. As most "classic" holsters were not designed with the foresight of optics in mind. We holster makers are not only trying to modify time tested holsters to work for optics, but trying new ideas (like the Okami) to accommodate for the popularity of optics. I learned what I can and cannot do by building for everything I can. Some turned out great. Some were returned/refunded because they did not meet the standard I set forth. I will not build something that may be unsafe to make a buck. Not only do I have every day citizen clients, I have law enforcement, military, security, federal agents, contractors, etc. who have to depend on the product I provide them. They have to trust it like I had to trust the gear I was issued/purchased when I was an Army MP. And now the holsters I carry every day. I do not take things like retention, concealment, comfort, etc. lightly. Quality gear has saved my life in the military, law enforcement and as a civilian. Candor is still my watchword. My word is my bond. I am transparent in everything I do. And I will not make/sell something that I wouldn't carry every day. I hope you understand and respect where I am coming from. If I cannot help you due to these limitations, please reach out and I can possibly direct you to someone who can. -Cheers!
Below is a picture of a half and full shirt guard. The half would cover the safety and go up to the top of the slide on a 1911. Whereas the full goes to the top of the beavertail. For striker fired, it would be similar. Half way up the back of the slide for the half and all the way to the top of the slide for a full. I do not do quarter, three quarter or one that "holds" a safety in place.
RONIN LEATHER HOLSTERS: BREAK IN AND CARE FOR YOUR HOLSTER:
*You have 5 business days to inspect the holster once it has arrived. If it is incorrect or inoperable, please contact me. After those 5 days, a return/exchange are not possible except for extenuating circumstances. This is the industry standard. Please know, the holster in question MUST be returned in the same condition it was received. Failure to do so will void the refund/exchange. Please contact me with any questions. *
Please read the below instructions before attempting to use any of the leather products I offer. Failure to follow these instructions may void the warranty.
- Each holster has been molded to an exact replica of the firearm. I heavily mold the holster, front and back, when the leather allows, and I sew as close as possible to the outline of the gun. This adds to the retention, and longevity.
- DO NOT TRY AND USE THE HOLSTER FOR EDC WITHOUT BREAKING IT IN.
- First step: Ensure the gun is unloaded.
- Wrap the gun in the wax paper provided or place it inside the bag. (You may need to trim the bag.)
- GENTLY place the gun in the holster. * Note if the holster was received in colder months, it will be very tight as it has sat empty. Leather will constrict/expand with the weather.
- Leave the gun in the holster for a few hours. Preferably room temperature. Do not put in sunlight.
- Put the holster on and wear it for a little bit. Your body temperature will warm the leather
- Try a few slow draws to check resistance. *You may have to wear it for a while before the resistance lessens.
- Once you feel confident the gun will draw smoothly, remove the wax paper/bag, and try it. If it still isn’t “easier” to draw, repeat the process with the bag/wax paper.
- I highly recommend practice draws. This will help immensely.
- IF you feel like there is a drag or single spot holding up the gun, using Leather Lightening or Draw EZ will not harm the holster. Use it sparingly.
** For magazine/cuff carriers you may have to break them in with a small sandwich bag. Even the retention screw systems. One may be tighter than the other, when worn, due to the radius of your body. I recommend leaving the retention but putting the mag/light/cuffs in a regular sandwich bag to help stretch the leather. Remember, leather is not kydex. Kydex is not leather. Leather can often do what it wants no matter what I do.
Things NOT to do:
· DO NOT oil the leather. This will soften the holster and you will lose retention. *There are some exotic hide leather cleaning/preserving lotions or oils that are good to use. HOWEVER, DO NOT use them on the cowhide.
· DO NOT put the leather near heat. IE: place it in an oven to “warm” it up.
· DO NOT soak the holster in water if it becomes dirty. Take a soft, damp cloth and wipe off the dirt. Then a soft dry cloth, to wipe it dry. Let air dry.
· As leather collects sweat, body oils, etc. they often can have an “odor”. To help alleviate the odor, place get a large enough Ziplock bag for the holster. Place a small amount of baking soda in the bag. Then place the holster in the bag and seal it. Allow it to sit for 24 hours. Remove the holster and wipe off the baking soda off the holster with a smooth, dry cloth. Or a can of air works just as well.
· DO NOT “modify” the holster. IE: punch new holes that may damage the sewing or cut the belt slot larger to suit a different belt. If you need these things done, I recommend going to a Tandy Leather shop, a saddle maker/leather maker or you can mail it back to me and I will do so for a nominal fee, plus shipping. Modifying the holster, yourself, WILL void the warranty.
Hardware:
- Ensure you use a thread lock on all hardware before every day use. I do not apply it as they have often “seized” the hardware on an appendix holster and I had to remake the holster.
- All of the snaps are Pull the Dot/One Way snaps. Meaning they “roll on/roll off” to ensure they are secure. Do not force the snap as you may damage the snap system.
- Check your holster before use. Ensure everything is in place, nice and secure, etc. We called this Pre-Combat Inspections in the Army. This was to ensure our gear was good to go before use. The holster is an essential part of the EDC equation.
Belts:
- As the shooter and exotic belts are double thick, DO NOT tight roll them like an off the shelf belt from a big box store. This could cause stress cracks or make the belt soften. If it has a polymer core, this could damage the polymer. Even though I use the thinnest/strongest out there, like other makers, Murphy’s Law…
- Ensure the hardware has thread lock applied to it.
If you have any questions, please reach out.
Break In For a Light/Laser Holster
Thank you for purchasing a holster for your pistol with light and/or laser. The break in process is similar to a standard holster but I have a few “shortcuts” that may help with the process. (Please see Break in and care paper included with this.)
- Like a typical holster, if you just try and shove the gun and light in, it will probably not go all the way in OR it will get stuck as the molding of the light helps with retention, locking things in place.
- Unlike kydex you CANNOT use the holster without the light. The gun will flop around in the holster without the light or laser.
- First step: Make sure the gun is unloaded.
- Wrap the gun in the wax paper or you can use the bag, but I prefer the wax paper for reasons you will see.
- Tape the wax paper with scotch or painters’ tape to help keep it in place.
- GENTLY place the gun in the holster and go about halfway. You want to make sure the channel for the light is properly stretched/opened.
- Let it sit for a bit and then check the resistance by taking it out and inserting it about halfway. If it feels smooth, gently insert the gun all the way in.
- Let the gun in the holster for a bit. Room temperature is best. Do not set it in sunlight.
- Try to draw the gun. If it feels smooth, then place it on. If not, allow it to sit for a little while longer.
- While wearing it, attempt a few slow draws. If it feels “easier”, then try the gun in it without the bag. If not, keep it in the bag/wax paper a little longer.
- If it is good to go but you feel a drag in a specific place you can do the following:
· Tape some wax paper where you feel it and reinsert the gun and do slow draws.
· Apply a small amount of Leather Lightening or Draw EZ to the area, inside the holster, and try it. Sometimes, it is just a small place where the light is molded.
Please feel to reach out if there are any questions or concerns.
Thank you for purchasing one of my products.
Dave Galloway
Owner/operator
Ronin Leather Holsters, LLC.
roninleatherholstersllc@gmail.com
360.870.9904