If you have a red dot, please read the information below regarding limitations.
I will not build for any firearm where the front sight is taller than .5 inches.
Outside the Waistband
Make/Model/Barrel Length/Optic (model)/Threaded Barrel/Light (model)/Sight height/Other (Please know I DO NOT build for any revolver with a red dot.)
Inside the Waistband
Make/Model/Barrel Length/Optic (model)/Threaded Barrel/Light (model)/Sight height/Other (Please know I DO NOT build for any revolver with a red dot.)
Draw hand, cant, belt width, open or sewn at the muzzle, shirt guard (none, half or full), body color, rough or slick out leather, reinforcement color (desired), exotic (if desired)
Appendix Inside the Waistband
Make/Model/Barrel Length/Optic (model)/Threaded Barrel/Light (model)/Sight height/Other (Please know I DO NOT build for any revolver with a red dot.)
Draw hand, belt width, clip model, open or sewn at the muzzle, shirt guard (none, half or full), body color, rough or slick out leather, reinforcement color, exotic (if desired), Modwing or Darkwing, steel band (Notes: All AIWB come with a steel band except the Aegis Calypto 1. For the Monoblock model, it only works with 1.5" belts or smaller.)
Shoulder Holsters
Make/Model/Barrel Length/Optic (model)/Threaded Barrel/Light (model)/Sight height/Other (Please know I DO NOT build for any revolver with a red dot.)
Holster and mag carrier color, rough or slick out, strap color, 1.5" tapered to 1" or solid 1" top straps, back strap color (if desired). If an exotic is desired, please email me so I can ask more specific questions. Measurements: for the top strap, measure from the base of the neck to where the front sight would be. For the bottom strap, please measure from the base of the neck to where the muzzle would be. For the back strap, measure from armpit to armpit. Please know I do not do tie downs. The back strap system works much better than tie downs for draw and to keep the system from sagging forward when bending forward.
Pocket holsters:
Make/Model/Barrel Length Please know I do not build for red dots, lights, lasers, etc.
Draw hand, pancake or clams shell design, body color, rough or slick out, exotic (if desired)
Magazine, cuff and light carriers:
Make/Model/Extended/Modified
Side worn, vertical or slightly canted, bullets forward or back, body color, rough or slick out leather, trim/trim color (if desired), exotic (if desired). For the Aegis Calypto single mag carrier: what clip model. For handcuff carriers, I will need the make, model and if the cuffs are hinged or chain. For handheld lights, I am limited. Please email me for more information.
Tanker Holster:
Make/Model/Barrel Length/Optic (model)/Threaded Barrel/Light (model)/Sight height/Other (Please know I DO NOT build for any revolver with a red dot.)
Draw hand, holster color, rough or slick out leather, strap color, exotic (if desired). Measurements: for the shoulder strap, measure where you would like the ejection port/cylinder on your torso and go up your back, over your shoulder to where you would like the grip to be. For the back/belly strap, measure from the ejection port/cylinder, around your torso to roughly where the front of the trigger guard should be.
Belts:
Belt width (1.25, 1.5 or 1.75 inches), buckle color (if you would like something else, please email me), leather color, rough or slick out, exotic (if desired), polymer core (if desired), 5 or 7 holes, 1 or 3/4 inches between the holes. Measurement: please measure from the fold at the buckle to the hole used the most. I recommend the hole you use while carrying a firearm. That hole would be the center hole on your new belt. However, if you want to change that due to upcoming weight loss, etc. Please email me. If you use a belt like KORE, measure from the back portion of the buckle to where the tail of the belt enters the buckle, then add 2 inches. This will be a rough idea. If you do not want to use that method, please measure your waist, with your pants worn, with a seamstress tape. Please, do not give me your pant size as it may not be correct. Ex: Some of my 36" waist pants are actually 34" or 38". I have even seen some that were greater than that. Belts are non refundable if the client gives me the incorrect size.
Once I have collected all of this information, I will give the client a quote, to include any military, law enforcement, veteran, first responder, retired, etc. discount. Shipping is USPS, however, I do not mind sending items via UPS or FedEx. But, there is a price difference for these two. I no longer ship internationally. The only way I would is if it is going to a military installation. Otherwise, the headache, delay, inconvenience to the client for international shipping as been tremendous.
RONIN LEATHER HOLSTERS: BREAK IN AND CARE FOR YOUR HOLSTER:
Please read the below instructions before attempting to use the holster and mag carriers. Failure to follow the below instructions may void the warranty on your product(s).
-I cannot stress enough to check the screws on snap loops and other hardware before each use. It is much like a pre-combat inspection: ensure the firearm functions, is lubed, loaded, etc. Screws, even with Lock-Tite can loosen with use.
Each holster is molded to an exact replica of the firearm ordered. The holster is sewn as close to the "outline" of the firearm as possible. This not only helps the holster keep its form but is helps with overall retention.
The holster goes through a process where it is exposed to hot water, pressing/blocking, clear coating, etc. During this process, the holster will expand and shrink, so to speak. During transport to the customer, the holster will more than likely shrink due to it being empty. When the holster is received, the user must do the following to make the break in process much easier. To properly break in the holster, you can wrap it in the bag it was sent in or use the wax paper included with the holster.
Unload the firearm, wrap it in the bag or wax paper, then gently put it in the holster. DO NOT put the gun in without the bag or wax paper as it may become stuck. I make the holster tight so the user can break it into the retention they prefer. If the holster is still tight, a second bag or putting a strip of wax paper where it is snug will help with the process.
Once you have done one of these two things, try gently putting the unloaded firearm into the holster to see if the gun goes in easily. If it does, wear it around the house and practice drawing, re-holstering to complete the break in process
I cannot emphasize this enough: do not wear the holster, for "daily carry" until you know it is broken in.
If you feel the holster is still too tight, or you have leather squeak, Mitch Rosen offers "Leather Lightening" to use on the holster. Galco offers “Draw EZ”, which works as well. These safely lubricates the inside of the holster. I have customers that swear by it and it doesn’t damage the leather.
Do not oil or use a leather softener on your holster.
Do not put the holster near heat.
If the holster is cold when received, allow it to naturally warm up before inserting the firearm in the holster.
If the holster becomes wet, allow it to air dry or sit in front of a fan, on low.
If the holster becomes dirty, wipe gently with a damp, soft cloth and allow it to air dry.
If the holster collects salt marks, due to sweat, wipe with a damp cloth and allow to air dry.
If you holster uses a snap system, more than likely it is a "One Way" or "Pull the Dot" snap. This snap system is, in a sense, a locking system, that should prevent accidental snap release. If you have not used this system, please view this video for instructions. Any snap systems broken by the customer will not be refunded due to user misuse. The holster can be returned for repair/snap replacement, at the user's expense and the expense of a new set of snap.
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfXhLIbsXuc
If you have purchased our shooters belt, do not roll it tight. Doing so can cause cracks, soften, or damage the belt.
If you have any questions regarding your holster, please contact us.
Thank you.
Dave Galloway
Owner/operator
dave@roninleatherholstersllc.com
360-870-9904
Thank you for purchasing the holster for your pistol with light or light/laser. The break in process is a bit different due to the detail in the molding of the holster. Once you break it in, there should be a positive “click” or “snap in” feeling when you holster your pistol. Please note: DO NOT try to use the holster without the light on it. It will have little to no retention. It is not like a kydex holster when you can sometimes do that. DO NOT try and use another light, no matter how similar. I cannot guarantee it would work. I am not liable if you and your warranty will be voided.
Like with any other break in, they unloaded pistol will need to be wrapped in wax paper or the plastic bag it came in. I highly recommend the following:
- Wrap the portion of the pistol/light from the ejection port down with the wax paper.
- Tape the wax paper down with either scotch tape or painter’s tape.
- Place the pistol/light into the bag.
- Insert the pistol/light partway into the holster. DO NOT try and fully seat it. You need to stretch the opening for the light channel.
- Let it sit for a while and then draw it and reseat it to see how the channel feels. If it feels easy to insert, fully seat it.
- Let it sit for a while and draw and reseat it until it is easier to draw.
- Put the holster on, wear it around to continue the break in. It will be tight as the holster, when worn, pulls it tight to the body.
- Try a few draws and if it seems easier, take the pistol/light out of the bag and try fully seating and drawing the holster.
- If it is good, enjoy using it as your new EDC. If not, put just the wax paper back on and repeat the above.