Please email me direct at: email@example.com I have removed the contact form as customers are having issues receiving my reply. If you do not hear from me within 24 hours, feel free to call, text or direct message on Facebook or Instagram. I am very prompt in returning emails, calls, texts, etc. This is not a web store as I have tried that and it did not work for how I want to deal with customers. I want to give each customer my 100% attention.
When ordering, please consider the below questions I will ask:
Is there a threaded barrel (I need overall length and circumference), red dot sight (I will need the model), taller sights (I will need the height), light/laser (I will need the make and model) or other modifications. Failure to do so will void any returns or exchanges. The customer will receive an email with a recap and an invoice to approve before payment will be requested.
If you want the muzzle open to accommodate a threaded barrel, I need to know. I need to ensure there is room to keep the barrel from snagging on the draw.
Side worn/draw hand.
Ride. (For OWB.)
Open or sewn muzzle
Shirt/sweat guard: none, half or full.
Reinforcement and the color.
Clip style. (For AIWB holsters.)
Exotic hide color.
Additional items like a Modwing or Darkwing for AIWB holsters.
For belts I need to know the size, based on the measurement instructions on the belt page. Color, how many holes, spacing, width and buckle type.
There may be other questions depending on your wants. I try to make it as tuned to the customer as possible. HOWEVER, I do not do one off holsters. Example: A customer wants me to make a drop leg holster. I no longer do such as I am no longer a full custom shop.
Once I have the above information, I will draw up the pattern for your holster, if needed. Once it is approved, I will send over an invoice. For payments, I take the following methods: Venmo, Cash App, Zelle, PayPal, credit card via secure portal or over the phone, check or money order.
As far as shipping is concerned, I use Priority Mail through USPS. The price starts at $9 and up. This is due to the ever-rising cost of USPS rates, and a percentage goes towards packing materials. Belts, Tanker holster and multiple items are more. Depending on the size and estimated weight, it can be up to $20. Please feel free to request other shipping options like FedEx or UPS. FedEx and UPS start at $15 and up. Please contact me if you have any questions.
I guarantee my holsters for life. This includes my Little Bear holsters. If there is ever an issue due to my work, I will repair or replace the damaged holster. If you ever have an issue with your holster, please contact me.
Thank you for your interest in my holsters. Feel free to contact me with any questions.
PO Box 1111 Duchesne, Utah 84021
Regarding red dots:
Please know I make an earnest attempt to keep my customers happy and provide the best service and product that I can. With that being said... The growing number of orders for optic ready holsters has almost tripled in the past year. This is great. I enjoy optics on a few of my pistols and fully understand their use and often a necessity for some shooters. However, there are limitations, on my end, that I want to make crystal clear before someone orders a holster for an optic ready pistol.
**As these are made to order, I cannot guarantee the holster will work if you change optics in the future. IE: Swapping from a Holosun to a Trijicon SRO. The cut will not be the same.**
-If the optic is past the beginning of the ejection port, I may not accept the order.
-Some large optics, like the Aimpoint ACRO may limit what holsters are available and the cant, ride, etc options.
Here are the specifics of each holster and optic:
-ALL standard IWB holsters will have a maximum cant of 15 degrees with an optic.
-The maximum for the Aegis Monoblock Adjustable is 15 degrees.
-The maximum cant for the Orvar, SW Special, Hastae and Okami is 15 degrees.
-For the JP Avenger, cant, ride and availability of the steel band depends on the position of the optic and the size of the pistol.
-The Ridgie. I cannot make it for pistols with the optic past the ejection port or for pistols with front sights over .5".
-The shoulder holsters may not work with some optics. I have to have enough leather at the top of the holster to balance the holster, when worn.
-I will not build a pocket holster for any pistol with optic. And yes, someone has asked me.
RONIN LEATHER HOLSTERS: BREAK IN AND CARE FOR YOUR HOLSTER:
Please read the below instructions before attempting to use the holster and mag carriers. Failure to follow the below instructions may void the warranty on your product(s).
-I cannot stress enough to check the screws on snap loops and other hardware before each use. It is much like a pre-combat inspection: ensure the firearm functions, is lubed, loaded, etc. Screws, even with Lock-Tite can loosen with use.
Each holster is molded to an exact replica of the firearm ordered. The holster is sewn as close to the "outline" of the firearm as possible. This not only helps the holster keep its form but is helps with overall retention.
The holster goes through a process where it is exposed to hot water, pressing/blocking, clear coating, etc. During this process, the holster will expand and shrink, so to speak. During transport to the customer, the holster will more than likely shrink due to it being empty. When the holster is received, the user must do the following to make the break in process much easier. To properly break in the holster, you can wrap it in the bag it was sent in or use the wax paper included with the holster.
Unload the firearm, wrap it in the bag or wax paper, then gently put it in the holster. DO NOT put the gun in without the bag or wax paper as it may become stuck. I make the holster tight so the user can break it into the retention they prefer. If the holster is still tight, a second bag or putting a strip of wax paper where it is snug will help with the process.
Once you have done one of these two things, try gently putting the unloaded firearm into the holster to see if the gun goes in easily. If it does, wear it around the house and practice drawing, re-holstering to complete the break in process
I cannot emphasize this enough: do not wear the holster, for "daily carry" until you know it is broken in.
If you feel the holster is still too tight, or you have leather squeak, Mitch Rosen offers "Leather Lightening" to use on the holster. Galco offers “Draw EZ”, which works as well. These safely lubricates the inside of the holster. I have customers that swear by it and it doesn’t damage the leather.
Do not oil or use a leather softener on your holster.
Do not put the holster near heat.
If the holster is cold when received, allow it to naturally warm up before inserting the firearm in the holster.
If the holster becomes wet, allow it to air dry or sit in front of a fan, on low.
If the holster becomes dirty, wipe gently with a damp, soft cloth and allow it to air dry.
If the holster collects salt marks, due to sweat, wipe with a damp cloth and allow to air dry.
If you holster uses a snap system, more than likely it is a "One Way" or "Pull the Dot" snap. This snap system is, in a sense, a locking system, that should prevent accidental snap release. If you have not used this system, please view this video for instructions. Any snap systems broken by the customer will not be refunded due to user misuse. The holster can be returned for repair/snap replacement, at the user's expense and the expense of a new set of snap.
If you have purchased our shooters belt, do not roll it tight. Doing so can cause cracks, soften, or damage the belt.
If you have any questions regarding your holster, please contact us.
Thank you for purchasing the holster for your pistol with light or light/laser. The break in process is a bit different due to the detail in the molding of the holster. Once you break it in, there should be a positive “click” or “snap in” feeling when you holster your pistol. Please note: DO NOT try to use the holster without the light on it. It will have little to no retention. It is not like a kydex holster when you can sometimes do that. DO NOT try and use another light, no matter how similar. I cannot guarantee it would work. I am not liable if you and your warranty will be voided.
Like with any other break in, they unloaded pistol will need to be wrapped in wax paper or the plastic bag it came in. I highly recommend the following:
- Wrap the portion of the pistol/light from the ejection port down with the wax paper.
- Tape the wax paper down with either scotch tape or painter’s tape.
- Place the pistol/light into the bag.
- Insert the pistol/light partway into the holster. DO NOT try and fully seat it. You need to stretch the opening for the light channel.
- Let it sit for a while and then draw it and reseat it to see how the channel feels. If it feels easy to insert, fully seat it.
- Let it sit for a while and draw and reseat it until it is easier to draw.
- Put the holster on, wear it around to continue the break in. It will be tight as the holster, when worn, pulls it tight to the body.
- Try a few draws and if it seems easier, take the pistol/light out of the bag and try fully seating and drawing the holster.
- If it is good, enjoy using it as your new EDC. If not, put just the wax paper back on and repeat the above.